Front-Load vs Top-Load Washer Dimensions: Sizes, Clearances & Which Fits

Front-load and top-load washers are almost the same width — about 27″ — so the dimension that decides which fits isn’t the footprint, it’s the clearance. A front-loader needs room for the door to swing out front; a top-loader needs open space above for the lid. Get those backwards and a machine that “fits” on paper won’t open in the spot you put it.

The width is the same; the height and clearance aren’t

Across the 351 washers we measure, width clusters tightly at 27″ — 254 of them fall between 26.5 and 28″, whichever way they load. The real split is height and how each one opens.

Dimension	Front-load	Top-load
Width	27″	27–28″
Height	38–39″	42–44″
Depth (incl. door)	30–34″	27–28″
Opening clearance	door swing, in front	lid, ~20″ above

So a top-loader is taller and shallower; a front-loader is shorter and deeper. They overlap on width, which is why the loading style — not the footprint — is what dictates where each can go.

Same ~27″ width · the clearance each needs points in a different direction

Front-load: plan for the door, and the depth

Front-loaders run shorter (38–39″), which is what lets them slide under a counter or take a stacked dryer on top. The trade is depth and the door: the door is large, hinged on one side, and swings a wide arc out front — check which side it opens and that it clears the wall, the dryer, or a walkway. Add roughly 6″ behind for hoses, so plan ~34–36″ of total depth even though the box reads 30–31″.

Pedestals raise a front-loader 12–15″

Storage pedestals lift a front-load washer to a no-bend loading height but add about 12–15″ to the overall height — enough to matter under a window or shelf. They’re a front-load-only option.

Top-load: the lid is the dimension people miss

A top-loader is taller (42–44″) but usually shallower, with no door swinging out front. Its catch is vertical: the lid hinges up and needs roughly 16–20″ of open space above the cabinet to clear. That rules out an under-counter install and means any shelf above has to sit well clear of the raised lid. Measure to the underside of whatever is overhead, not just to the top of the machine.

Which one fits your spot

Choose front-load if…

It goes under a counter or you want to stack a dryer on top.
You have open floor in front for the door to swing.
Height is tight (a window sill, a low shelf).

Choose top-load if…

There’s open space above but little depth to spare.
You’d rather not bend to load, and don’t need to stack.
A swinging front door would block a walkway.

Stacking, side-by-side widths and laundry-closet method are covered in the washer & dryer dimensions guide; for apartment-size units see compact 24″ washers and dryers. Browse measured sizes for every model under washer dimensions.

Frequently asked

What are the dimensions of a front-load washer?

A full-size front-loader is about 27″ wide, 38–39″ tall and 30–34″ deep including the door — plan ~6″ more depth for hoses. The door swings out front, so leave clearance there.

What are the dimensions of a top-load washer?

About 27–28″ wide, 42–44″ tall and 27–28″ deep. The lid hinges up, so you also need roughly 16–20″ of clearance above the machine.

Are front-load and top-load washers the same width?

Effectively yes — both are around 27″ wide. In our data 254 of 351 washers measure between 26.5 and 28″. The difference is height and how each one opens.

How much clearance does a top-load washer need above it?

Roughly 16–20″ so the lid can hinge fully open. That’s why a top-loader can’t go under a counter and needs a generous gap to any shelf above.

Can you put a top-load washer under a counter?

No — the lid opens upward and needs clearance above. For an under-counter or stacked install you need a front-loader, which opens from the front.

Measured from official ENERGY STAR data + manufacturer spec sheets · Last verified June 2026